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Writer's pictureDr Ana Stjelja

The House of the First Serbian World Traveler, Writer and Feminist: Jelena J. Dimitrijevic


The front side of Jelena's house, December 2021 (Photo by Ana Stjelja)

Belgrade. A city of a very rich culture, but tumultuous history. One of the oldest cities in Europe with a history that lasts nearly 7,000 years, the cradle of the Vinca culture, the most highly developed culture on the Southeast Europe in Neolithic time. A city that lies at the confluence of two rivers (Sava and Danube) that has always been attractive for the conquerors, visitors and world travelers. Apart from its well-known historical sites and monuments, Belgrade is also famous for its prominent citizens. It is the home of various famous and prominent Serbs who left an indelible mark in its history.


One of them was a woman whose name was forgotten for nearly fifty years. But all this time, there was one place which adorned the center of the city, the place which survived wars and natural disasters. One of these cultural monuments of Belgrade that is defying time and still captivate with its beauty is the house located at 29 Francuska Street in Belgrade, in the city municipality of Stari grad, that once belonged to Jelena J. Dimitrijevic (1862-1945), the first Serbian woman world traveler, writer and feminist. While her life and work were shadowed by time and different political streams, her house remained untouched, waiting for some better days, when its owner will come under the spotlight again.



House of Leona Panajot


The house of Serbian writer Jelena J. Dimitrijevic was built on the architectural unity called “House of Leona Panajot” which was declared a cultural monument in 1997 due to its special architectural and urban value, and as a rare example of Belgrade Art Nouveau. Her house stands out even nowadays and still attracts the passers-by. Fortunately, it did not experience the fate of old buildings that have fallen into disrepair due to negligence and lost their former splendor. More importantly, it reflects the architectural taste of its owner. However, her house survived the Second World War and kept its beauty until this day. It is interesting to note that Jelena, who was very wealthy and had a large number of valuables in addition to her manuscripts, wanted to bequeath her property to the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, but was rejected for unknown reasons. According to Jelena’s will, the building was supposed to belong to SANU so that Serbian female students could study in England sponsored by the house rent. Later, the house became the property of a bank which went into bankruptcy, and today it is unknown who the owner is.


House of Leona Panajot, December 2021 (Photo by Ana Stjelja)

Plaque on the House of Leona Panajot

House of J.J.D. on the left and House of Leona Panajot on the right


Who was Jelena J. Dimitrijevic


She was a Serbian writer, feminist, intellectual and gender equality activist, born in 1862. After her marriage to the artillery captain Jovan Dimitrijevic, she moved to Belgrade, where she lived until her death in 1945. She established herself as a writer who wrote poetry and prose, especially travels. She spent most of her life travelling the world. She visited Europe, Africa, Asia and America, becoming the first Serbian woman globetrotter (a world traveler). She spoke several foreign languages. Her most significant works are: Jelenaʼs Poems (1894), Letters from Nis on Harems (1897) New women (1912, 2012), Letters from Thessaloniki (1918, 2008), Letters from India (1928), Letters from Egypt (1929), New World or in America for a Year (1934), Seven Seas and Three Oceans (1940)...

She was famous for advocating for religious tolerance, cultural diversity, gender equality, women's rights, especially for the young girls to get a chance for proper education.


A House of the prominent Serbian writer as the cultural heritage of Belgrade


The house where Jelena J. Dimitrijevic lived most of her life was built on the very significant architectural unity known as “House of Leona Panajot”. In a broader sense, her house is located near a very significant spatial, cultural-historical area around Dositej's lyceum which is one of the oldest and most important urban spaces in Belgrade, formed at the end of the 18th and early 19th century and which has been declared as a cultural monument in 1989.


Jelena bought the house which was part of the “House of Leona Panajot”, a family house built in 1908 and designed by the famous Serbian architect Petar Bajalović. While it is still unknown who was Leona Panajot, it is very well-known who was Jelena J. Dimitrijevic as her life and work, once neglected, again started to attract researchers and came to light.


Jelena J. Dimitrijevic in her house, first decades of the 2oth century

Jelena bought the land for her Belgrade house in 1898. The reconstruction of the house started upon her arrival in Belgrade. She remodeled the house and added a floor in 1928. The house was projected by the architect Jovan J. Stanojevic. As a writer and a woman of style, she chose the concept of the style of late Art Nouveau, following the architectural style of the “House of Leona Panajot” it relies on. What is also noticeable are the balconies that were also added. They play a very important role as they were the famous place of the writer. There are many testimonies reporting that Jelena used to go out on one of these balconies and observe the people passing by her house. Maybe this was a way of relaxing from her long and exhausting trips, but also these were the moments of her contemplation, the moments when she was preparing a new book, or was about to start some new novel or plan a new trip.



It is interesting that on the top of the house we can see Jelena’s initials J.J.D. written in Serbian Cyrillic letters. Many decorative elements such as roses and lianas are present as well. But, the only things that this house is missing is a memorial plaque which would be a memento for all the visitors and tourists who pass beside it, so that they can know that this is the house once owned by a unique Serbian woman, the woman who travelled the world, who published 12 books and spoke 4 languages, a woman of modern times.


The article titled “Serbian Sappho from Francuska 29 Street” published in the Politika daily newspaper

The oldest newspapers in Serbia, the daily newspapers Politika brought an article by Nenad Novak Stefanovic on Jelena’s house titled Serbian Sappho from the Francuska 29 Street. The article was published in 2016 pointing out the importance of putting the memorial plaque on the facade of the house, so that its owner will never be forgotten.


Today, Jelena's house is abandoned, on sale, waiting for its new owner, while the House of Leona Panajot is the seat of the Serbian Church Charity Organization.



Dr Ana Stjelja





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